Back to NB

Hit 52nd this morning, to find a refreshing bump in swell from the weekend. It was clean and waist-chest, but a bit inconsistent. I had a great left that I actually made an off-the-lip without crashing or losing the wave, but I couldn’t keep enough speed and the wave closed out on me. I also had a couple great wipeouts that have kept seawater draining from my nose throughout the day. Fun times though! Swell should be picking up more today and tomorrow morning — I think I’m going to wax up the new board (7′6 Russell thruster) and give her a try tonight at NB. Tomorrow morning I’ll DP @ Trestles, hoorah!

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