HB Sunday

Surfed twice in HB. Morning (around 9:30am) was pretty good. Evening (5pm) was beat to shit and frustrating. I’m finding that I really hate the singlefin longboard, the more I surf my 7′2 thruster. It just takes me about 3 missed bottom turns to remember I have to turn it from the very back of the board. Here I am trying to carve down a 4-5′ face and when I lean into the turn the board just doesn’t follow. The only good thing about this board is that it is really easy to noseride and it hauls ass when you point it in a straight line and walk to the nose. Well, also easy to catch waves..but you HAVE to catch them early otherwise you’ll pearl. There’s 0 rocker on this thing.

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