Woke up at 5 and met Charlie down at Trestles parking lot. Skated down to Cotton’s with the new board. Swell looked awesome — nice big lefts rolling in consistently. Paddled out and was surprised by the speed they approached, though they weren’t to fast once you got in. I went for a couple nice lefts and screwed up the takeoff on each, falling back into the wave. Then I kooked out again, missed a bottom turn, and the leash tore off my leg. Second time ever surfing this board and I already lost it. Well I swam in and found the board on the sand, luckily there weren’t exposed rocks where I was surfing. Fixed the leash, went back out, scored about 3-4 really nice lefts, and took off around 7am to get back to work. Could have probably stayed out another half hour, but I had no idea what time it was. Mental note: more DP’s at Cotton’s!