Left work early to give a friend a ride, and drove up the coast.. tried a spot I had only watched before, somewhat secluded from the bustle of nearby cities. Brought my 7′2 down to the beach, put on trunks and a vest and then realized that I didn’t have my leash. I had swapped it to the new board after forgetting the brand new leash when I christened that one. I figured there was hardly anybody out (2 people when I paddled out), and even though I’m not nearly skilled enough to ride with no leash on my shortboard, I did it anyway. I started off by losing my board twice in a row, but then got a couple waves and made it back without incident. Then I was inside and a decent size wave was coming in, going to crash directly on me. I duck dove as deep as I could, and the wave drove me down to the rocky bottom and I cut my knee and tore a hole in the rail of my board. As soon as I realized it I belly-boarded the next wave in and went home. Was definitely fun though, being at a spot right around 4th of July, with only a couple other people out.